Monday, April 22, 2013
Basic Assembly and Sewing Instructions --- Back Center Zippered Dress
The problem with designing and drafting your own pattern is that instructions for assembly do NOT come with the pattern. Experience and planning are necessary to prevent mishaps. Here is a set of basic assembly instructions.
transfer all markings to the fabric before removing the pattern
stay stitch neckline, armhole and all curved searms to prevent warping
darts
bodice to skirt at waist
zipper -- back center seam
shoulder seams
side seams
neck facing
sleeve of sleeve facing
hems
Monday, April 15, 2013
How much do I need?
Many times I am in the fabric store and see a piece of fabric that appeals to me. I wonder much fabric is needed to make a particular garment.
In my current pattern drafting class, we were told to purchase the fabric. Without seeing or mocking the layout of the pieces; it is difficult to figure out how much fabric to purchase.
By the end of the project, I hope to have a reasonable idea how much fabric is needed to make a sleeveless aline dress. I will gather, average and post information found on the back of pattern envelopes.
In my current pattern drafting class, we were told to purchase the fabric. Without seeing or mocking the layout of the pieces; it is difficult to figure out how much fabric to purchase.
By the end of the project, I hope to have a reasonable idea how much fabric is needed to make a sleeveless aline dress. I will gather, average and post information found on the back of pattern envelopes.
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Applique
Here is a onesie that had been previously tie dyed and now an iron on applique has been added.
Sunday, March 3, 2013
When Ready To Wear Is Not!
ltering Yoga Pants:
The tie was too bulky under a slim tank. Removing the tie would have made the garment look unfinished. I shortened the tie and removed the bulk while maintaining a finished look.
Monday, December 31, 2012
Sunday, November 18, 2012
Covered snaps and buttons
I just finished some sample covered buttons and snaps. The project turned out to more simple than expected and the look well worth the effort. For the snaps, I used backcut up tights hoping that the hole would not run. I am not sure a woven would look as nice. Tights come in on almost every color so I think that is the way to go. For the buttons, I followed the directions on the package. One piece of fabric was interfaced with a very lightweight fusible knit interfacing and the other one was made without a lining. The interfaced button looks nicer because the color is not dulled by the metal of the button back and more closely matches the original fabric.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
More on Scallops...
As luck would have it, I found more information on scallops after completing the pillows. I want to include the new found information for future reference.
An odd number of scallops is visually more appealing than an even number.
Calculate the number of scallops; if inches do not divide well, try centimeters.
Make a template from freezer paper. It can temporarily be ironed and removed after marking.
Use a small stitch length for well defined lines.
Pressing and clipping can help create crisp lines. Try to press inside the scallop before turning right side out. After turning and pressing. Clip by staggering the the clip lines on the two layers. This will create a more polished look on sheer fabrics. Press and finger roll the seam line to the inside so the seam line will not not show onthe finish piece.
An odd number of scallops is visually more appealing than an even number.
Calculate the number of scallops; if inches do not divide well, try centimeters.
Make a template from freezer paper. It can temporarily be ironed and removed after marking.
Use a small stitch length for well defined lines.
Pressing and clipping can help create crisp lines. Try to press inside the scallop before turning right side out. After turning and pressing. Clip by staggering the the clip lines on the two layers. This will create a more polished look on sheer fabrics. Press and finger roll the seam line to the inside so the seam line will not not show onthe finish piece.
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Pillow talk...
When self drafting patterns, one has to rely on sewing construction experience to complete the project. There are no assembly and fabric layout instructions like those that come with store bought patterns. This is probably one of the most challenging aspects of using self drafted patterns.
When designing the pillowcase patterns, I had no idea how much ease was needed. I chose a half inch on each side thinking that would make it easier to insert the pillow. For the travel pillows, the ease worked well. For the sofa pillows, I did not use any ease. For a more "stuffed" pillow, I may subtract some from each side....probably 1/4 inch.
Since I was planning on making several matching pillows, I made a paper pattern for each size to use each time.
When designing the pillowcase patterns, I had no idea how much ease was needed. I chose a half inch on each side thinking that would make it easier to insert the pillow. For the travel pillows, the ease worked well. For the sofa pillows, I did not use any ease. For a more "stuffed" pillow, I may subtract some from each side....probably 1/4 inch.
Since I was planning on making several matching pillows, I made a paper pattern for each size to use each time.
She sews sea shells by the seashore...
Sewing Scallops
To make the envelope pillows cases special, I decided to add scallops to one edge. I used the printed scallops off the cutting board and picked the size of best fit for the 12 inch square pillow.
To keep the fabric stable and prevent warping, I folded the fabric over to serve as a facing. After stitching along the scallop line, I trimmed the edges, turned the fabric and pressed for a crisp clean look.
The scallop did not lend well to understitching so I relied heavily on the concept of trimming close and very close with the close trim to the outside; the same concept used in armhole and neck facings.
I have since made cases for 14 inch square pillows and adjusted the scallop size accordingly. After a good pressing, I edge stitched the scallop. Edge stitching is more practical but more sophisticated without the edge stitching.
To make the envelope pillows cases special, I decided to add scallops to one edge. I used the printed scallops off the cutting board and picked the size of best fit for the 12 inch square pillow.
To keep the fabric stable and prevent warping, I folded the fabric over to serve as a facing. After stitching along the scallop line, I trimmed the edges, turned the fabric and pressed for a crisp clean look.
The scallop did not lend well to understitching so I relied heavily on the concept of trimming close and very close with the close trim to the outside; the same concept used in armhole and neck facings.
I have since made cases for 14 inch square pillows and adjusted the scallop size accordingly. After a good pressing, I edge stitched the scallop. Edge stitching is more practical but more sophisticated without the edge stitching.
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