Sewing and the Asymmetrical Shoulder

Often the body is asymmetrical. With the shoulder, there are two choice. The first is to modify the pattern to accommodate the lower shoulder. The other is to employ the use of a small custom shoulder pad to equalize the lower shoulder. The use of a small shoulder pad creates better balance and is less likely to emphasize the inequality.

Fit and Fashion

When choosing and designing garments, one should accentuate the positive, minimize the least positive and enhance the remainder. Color, line, texture can accomplish all these goals. In my case, I want to enhance the bust, accentuate the waist and minimize the hips.

Sixties Sewing and the MOD Dress

The mod dress of the sixties consisted of three distinct elements:
short set in sleeve
high round neck
A-line
above the knee hemline

It is a great base sloper because there are many variations from the sixties that can be used or brought up to date.


The basic dress can incorporate:
princess lines- mid armhole or mid shoulder
two ended darts
panel lines
style lines

Sixties Sewing and the Jiffy Pattern

I have come to appreciate Jiffy Patterns --they usually consist of 2-3 main pieces and the facings. The lack of personal fit was the major draw back to the patterns. I am hoping I can get my hands on a few and make some summer dresses in a jif.

I am excited to be able to personalize the fit from my own developed sloper.

Stitch in the Ditch

Stitching in the ditch is a sewing technique that has several uses in garment construction. It is the technique where the stitching line is place between two seam lines with another piece of construction underneath. It is burried and invisible when done well.

Elastic can be secured at the side seams in elastic waist garments. This attached the elastic to the seam to prevent shifting and twisting.
Facings can be secured at shoulder and arm hole seams.

The bias wrap around in the modified Hong Kong seam finish.

Facings

There are several techniques that can be used to help insure that facings remain in place.

Stitch in the ditch along the shoulder seam or side seam.

Make the seamless edge of the facing a smidge smaller than the garment. Keeping the seam side the same, trim off 1/16 of an inch on the lower armhole or neck seam.

Tack down at strategic places--darts, seam allowances.

Understitch to help settle the facing to the inside.

Sewing Cheat Sheets----

When planning garments and garment construction without the luxury of pattern envelop instructions, one has to be familiar with standard construction techniques. These techniques include upturned hem length based on style of skirt, seam allowances based on the type of seam, zipper length based on the type of garment and the list goes on. Right now, I have to check several sources before finding the information. Some of the standards vary according to industry or home sewing. Having cheat sheets with the pertinent information would be valuable. Another project for another day.....

Sewing Assembly: Sometimes I Make Up My Own Rules

Matching darts at the with the bodice and skirt is a challenge. Sometime the dart gets flipped or half flipped in the wrong direction causing unnecessary bulk.

To prevent this problem, I prestitched the darts down an eighth of an inch inside the seam line so the dart will remain flat when sewing the seams. I start about a half inch before the dart and continued another half inch after the dart.

Basic Assembly and Sewing Instructions --- Back Center Zippered Dress

The problem with designing and drafting your own pattern is that instructions for assembly do NOT come with the pattern. Experience and planning are necessary to prevent mishaps. Here is a set of basic assembly instructions.


transfer all markings to the fabric before removing the pattern
stay stitch neckline, armhole and all curved searms to prevent warping
darts
bodice to skirt at waist
zipper -- back center seam
shoulder seams
side seams
neck facing
sleeve of sleeve facing
hems

How much do I need?

Many times I am in the fabric store and see a piece of fabric that appeals to me. I wonder much fabric is needed to make a particular garment.

In my current pattern drafting class, we were told to purchase the fabric. Without seeing or mocking the layout of the pieces; it is difficult to figure out how much fabric to purchase.

By the end of the project, I hope to have a reasonable idea how much fabric is needed to make a sleeveless aline dress. I will gather, average  and post information found on the back of pattern envelopes.